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The StarTech.com USB Plate is an adapter cable with a plate that converts the USB pins from most AT style Pentium and newer motherboards to 2 standard USB A-Style sockets. Typical applications for this adapter are to provide the missing link to PCs that have USB capability built-in, but no connectors on the PC to utilize it.
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Technical Details
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By T. Acar (Seattle, WA)
I have Intel DG33TL and DG41TY motherboards with lots of USB connectors on the board. These are intel style 2x5 connectors.
StarTech plugs into the 2x5 connector right in, no pin swapping is needed. The shielded-looking wire goes into the not-connected area (reserved for the cable shield (not used/not needed). The rest is compatible with the MoBo.
By Tony Polito (Greenville, North Carolina)
Ok. Your computer motherboard has an unused 2x5 male-pinned header that serves up two USB ports. [Those are usually there in case you happen to have internal devices that expect to be powered, controlled and/or configured as USB devices.]
And your normal-height computer case has an unused slot in the back.
Who can't use more external USB ports, right? So plop down the $8 + s/h get this thing.
The wires are short. I measured them at exactly 7.5" from base of the USB port to the very end of the wire header. Since the USB Ports actually sit an inch or more above the mobo, in practical terms, you're not going to get much more than 5 inches of reach. If you need an 12" extension cable, look at item cab-167 vended at FrozenCPU. Even the wire color is a match.
There WAS a catch. The female end of this gizmo that plugs into the motherboard was mis-pinned. Swap the pins into the correct location and you're good-2-go.
On the motherboard, the CORRECT pinout for a single USB internal header is:
Pin1, Red, +5v (Power)
Pin2, White, USB- (Data)
Pin3, Green, USB+ (Data)
Pin4, Black, Ground
Pin5, Void (OR an optional, heavier-gauge black wire for SGND, Signal Ground)
I rec'd this gizmo pinned as
Pin1-Red
Pin2-VOID
Pin3-White
Pin4-Green
Pin5-Black
I had to carefully move the female pins around to correct this.
Use the smallest jeweler's (or eyeglass repair) flat-tip screwdriver you can find. Gently and ever-so-slightly lift the small restraining flap in the plastic terminator--the end to lift is found at the lower edge of the little open square that reveals a part of the pin. The pin should slide/drop right out. Then slide the pin into the correct slot. The pin will click in place behind the restraining flap. Don't bust the flap off or ... well, you know.
While this fix is simple enough, you can be sure that thousands of customers created immense amounts of costs and work for the manufacturer and vendors when they simply returned these things after finding the USB ports didn't work.
As such, you can also be sure that somewhere, in some distant part of the world, the worker who built tens of thousands of these incorrectly -- a worker whose only job description was "insert Pin1 as red, Pin2 as white, ..." -- has now returned to a career in agriculture.
By Renaud Olgiati (Asuncion, Paraguay)
Works very well, only gripe is the length of the cable, which was a bit short in my case and needed some juggling the extention cards around to get a free slot close enough to the USB pins of one of my motherboards.
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